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When compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate well-known high-end names. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary titans is a modest salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the family totally astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states a family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest shop securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.